How to Spot Fakes Panerai Watch And What I Learned From The Experience

Hello everyone, I’m Max and welcome back to Hope On. A few months ago, while browsing watch forums, I stumbled upon a Panerai watch for sale. Typically, Panerai watches are known for their large size, which I had always thought would be too big for my slimmer wrists. However, this particular Panerai 48 was advertised at a more manageable 40 mm. The seller explained that he was trying to finance a car and needed to sell some of his watches. This seemed like the perfect opportunity for me to finally own a Panerai.

Panerai boasts a fascinating history that is deeply intertwined with military and horological innovation. In the early 20th century, the company produced watches for the Royal Italian Navy, specifically for elite divers known as the Frogmen. These legendary Commandos needed robust and reliable timepieces for their underwater missions during World War II. When the military contract was offered to Panerai for diving watches, the company had none to offer. Guido Panerai turned to Rolex, known for their waterproof oyster cases. This collaboration led to the creation of the Radiomir watches, which, despite their large 47 mm size, maintained the iconic cushion case design of Rolex’s oyster cases.

Panerai’s watches featured radium for luminescence, a material not known at the time to be radioactive. This led to a notorious history involving factory workers, known as the Radium Girls, who suffered severe health issues due to radium exposure. These women painted watch dials with radium and were encouraged to use saliva to fine-tune the brushes, resulting in significant radiation poisoning. A film based on this tragic story is set to be released this year, bringing further awareness to their plight.

Returning to the Panerai 48, the online ad included some excellent photos of the watch. However, the seller had no feedback, and the watch lacked both box and papers—potential red flags for any serious collector. Despite these concerns, I was excited about the prospect of owning a Panerai and decided to make a lowball offer on Chrono24, which the seller accepted immediately. I figured the worst-case scenario was that I could resell the watch if it didn't meet my expectations.

A week later, the watch arrived. Having never handled a Panerai before, I was struck by its simplicity. The brushing was clean, and the engraving on the case back was crisp. However, the strap felt flimsy and plastic-like, which was disappointing for a watch of this caliber. Despite this, the watch fit well on my wrist initially. However, after a month, I found myself reaching for it less and less. Eventually, I decided to sell it.

When I listed the Panerai for sale, potential buyers questioned its authenticity. This prompted me to conduct further research, and I quickly realized the prevalence of fake Panerai watches in the market. I borrowed a known genuine Panerai from a friend and took both watches to my trusted watchmaker, Tom, at Nbits for verification.

Tom pointed out several discrepancies. The fake Panerai’s lettering and markers were less crisp, and the engraving quality was inferior. The screw heads and damaskeening on the movement plates also lacked the high quality of the genuine watch. Additionally, the fake watch’s movement had the wrong regulator and shock absorber systems. Realizing I had a counterfeit on my hands, my heart sank, knowing I might have lost $3,000.

Despite the initial disappointment, this experience provided a valuable learning opportunity. Comparing the real and fake watches side by side revealed subtle but telling differences. The genuine Panerai had a smoother center pinion cap and a more refined overall finish. Even the luminescence on the fake watch, surprisingly, held up well compared to the genuine article.

Fortunately, the story has a somewhat happy ending. The seller agreed to give me a partial refund, which alleviated some of the financial loss. This experience underscores the importance of thorough research and caution when purchasing high-value items, especially online. It’s crucial to verify the authenticity of the seller and the product. Remember, as the saying goes, buy the seller, not the watch.

My experience with the Panerai 48 was a rollercoaster of excitement and disappointment. From the initial thrill of potentially owning a piece of horological history to the gut-wrenching realization of having been duped, it was a journey filled with valuable lessons. For anyone looking to buy a high-end watch, my advice is simple: do your homework, verify the seller’s credibility, and be cautious of deals that seem too good to be true.

Share your watch buying experiences in the comments below. Have you ever encountered a similar situation? How did you handle it? Best of luck on your next watch hunt, and until next time, take care.