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Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 Review: Swiss Quality and Military Heritage

September 12, 2024
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Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 Review: Swiss Quality and Military Heritage


Today, we’ll be taking a deep dive into the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical with a black dial on a bracelet. If you're new to the channel, we review watches available for purchase on our website, TeddyBaldasar.com, where we are authorized dealers for many brands. In this video, we’ll cover everything you need to know about this timepiece and offer some final points of consideration. If you have any questions or want to learn more, check the link in the description to visit the product page. You can also book a time with one of our dedicated watch specialists.

A Closer Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

The Hamilton Khaki Field collection stands out for its military-inspired designs, offering vintage reinterpretations with high-quality Swiss movements at competitive prices. Before moving its operations to Switzerland, Hamilton played a critical role during World War II, producing over a million field watches for U.S. military personnel between 1942 and 1945. Today, we’ll focus on one of their most popular modern interpretations of that era, the Khaki Field Mechanical 38.

Case and Dimensions

The watch has a 38mm diameter, a lug-to-lug distance of just under 47mm, and a 9.1mm height. Despite its 38mm case, it wears slightly larger due to the longer lug-to-lug length, feeling closer to a 39mm watch on the wrist. The bead-blasted finish gives the watch a rugged, utilitarian look, and the sharp edges and crisp transitions between surfaces are well-executed.

Crown and Water Resistance

At the 3 o'clock position, there’s an oversized push-pull crown that operates the manual-winding H50 caliber movement. The crown also offers hacking seconds, allowing for precise time-setting. While the watch provides 50 meters of water resistance, it’s not suitable for intense water activities. However, it should perform well for everyday situations like washing hands or light rain.

Bracelet and Wearability

One key feature of this model is its matte-finish, three-link bracelet installed between the 20mm lugs. The center links are staggered and designed with a curve, giving it a comfortable and wearable feel on the wrist. Although it uses split pins for sizing, which is typical for watches in this price range, the bracelet is solid overall.

The bracelet is secured with a stamped security clasp offering three points of micro-adjustment. It even includes a hidden clasp with a 20mm extension, typically seen on dive watches, but it’s a welcome addition here. While the clasp can be a bit tricky to open if you don’t have long fingernails, it’s still well-constructed and functional.

Dial and Crystal

The slightly convex sapphire crystal provides excellent protection and a clear view of the matte black dial. Hamilton has stuck with the classic field watch design, which they helped popularize during WWII. The dial features pillowy white print across the surface, giving excellent contrast for readability. Around the dial’s perimeter, you’ll find triangular faux patina Super-LumiNova plots, enhancing the watch’s vintage aesthetic.

The white syringe-style hands and sweeping second hand also include Super-LumiNova, although the lume’s performance is average. It glows green in the dark but doesn’t compete with other watches in the same price range. The Arabic numerals on the outer hour markers and the smaller 24-hour scale maintain the military theme, while the dial remains uncluttered with minimal text, only featuring the Hamilton logo.

Movement and Performance

Turning the watch over, you’ll find a solid screw-down case back with space for custom engraving. Powering the watch is the H50 manual-winding movement, based on the ETA 2801-2. This movement has been modified to offer an impressive 80-hour power reserve by slowing the beat rate from 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) to 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

The movement is basic yet reliable, with features like hand-winding and hacking seconds, which are crucial for military accuracy. Hamilton has also upgraded the balance assembly with a free-sprung system, enhancing shock resistance. However, it does mean you can’t manually regulate the movement yourself, but general accuracy tends to run within the single digits, which is excellent for a watch in this category.

Final Thoughts

To wrap up, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 is a fantastic entry-level Swiss watch. If you're looking for something versatile with a strong heritage, this is a no-brainer. The bracelet adds significant value to the watch, and while there are some minor drawbacks—like the 50m water resistance and average lume—the watch still delivers exceptional quality for its price.

At around $500 to $600, the Khaki Field Mechanical remains one of the best value propositions in Swiss watchmaking, especially for those who appreciate military-inspired designs.

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